HomeFAQ

First, you must turn the brake to the OFF position and then back to the ON position.

1. Circuit overloads cause the wires to overheat, sounding the alarm off. As long as the circuit load is reduced (for example, plugging the appliance into a different circuit), the problem can be solved.
2. The circuit is short-circuited and a large amount of current (thousands of amps) flows in a short amount of time, and the switch will trip immediately. At this point, it is essential to check the circuit and the electrical appliances on that same circuit.

Yes, but there must be local certification (CSA, ULC, etc.). Otherwise, if the appliance causes property or personal loss, the insurance company will not be obligated to compensate you.

In most cases, it is not possible, because the size of the switch generally depends on the size of the wire. If you change the big switch, you will not be able to protect the wires safely.

The kitchen is the most high-traffic place in the entire house.

Generally, there are several sets of circuits:

1. Electric oven, 40 amps.
2. Range hood, 15 amps.
3. Microwave oven, 15 amps.
4. Refrigerator, 15 to 20 amps.
5. Counter top socket, two to three sets of wires, 12 to 20 amps.
6. Kitchen light, 15 amps.

Yes, both level 1 and level 2 chargers are separate lines.
What is the difference between the home level 1 and level 2 electric car chargers?

GFCI is simply a leakage protection socket. It protects the user by detecting leakage as low as 5 mA and turning off the power within 25 milliseconds. Before the launch of the GFCI socket, about 800 people died of electric shock every year. Now the number is closer to 200. Canadian electrical code GFCI protection for outlets within 1.5 m of washbasins, bathtubs or showers is required.

From 1960 to 1975, many North American houses used aluminum wire. The aluminum wire has many requirements during the installation process. For example, anti-oxidant must be applied and the socket should be marked with aluminum wire. If the installation is not correct, it will cause a lot of problems and jeopardize your safety. If your home uses aluminum wire, it is best to check with a qualified electrician to ensure your home is running safely and to prevent and future complications.

This could possibly be due to a loose main line in the electrical box.

A new electrical box can cost anywhere from $1,000 to $1,500.
If you want to upgrade from 100 amps to 200 amps, the cost ranges from $3,000 to $4,000.

If your electrical box is at 100 amps or less and you need to add some circuits to the oven, dryer, or electric car charger, you should first find an electrician to do a load calculation. They can help you determine if an upgrade of the electrical box to 200 amps is necessary.

The life of the electrical box and the electric switch is generally between 30 and 40 years. If your electrical box is rusted, the electric switch often jumps, or the circuit is short-circuited, but the electrical switch does not jump, these are signs of aging of the electric box. If you are noticing one or more of these issues, it is likely time to replace your electrical box. New switches now offer more protection, such as leakage protection, arc detection and more.

Ground wire is the most important part of electrical safety and many insurance companies will not provide housing insurance for houses without it. Many old homes in the West End of Vancouver have no ground wire. The solution is to replace the switch or socket with a leakage protection (GFCI) outlet.